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Vogue 100

Vogue 100

Robin Muir

National Portrait Gallery Publ
2018
pokkari
In more than 2,000 issues, British Vogue magazine has acted as a cultural barometer, putting fashion in the context of the larger world in which we live - how we dress, how we entertain, what we eat, listen to, watch, who leads us, excites us and inspires us. The century's most talented photographers, illustrators and a rtists have contributed to it. In Lee Miller it had, unexpectedly, its own war photographer; in Norman Parkinson, Cecil Beaton, David Bailey, Snowdon and Mario Testino the greatest portrait and fashion photographers of their generation; and in Beaton and Irving Penn two giants of twentieth - century photography. From 1892, American Vogue chronicled the life of beautiful people - their clothes, parties, houses and habits - and the magazine was exported for intrigued British readers. In 1916, when the First Wo rld War made trans atlantic shipments impossible, its proprietor, Conde Nast, authorised a British edition. It was an immediate success, and over the following ten decades of uninterrupted publication continued to mirror its times - the austerity and optimi sm that followed two world wars, the `Swinging London' scene of the sixties, the radical seventies, the image - conscious eighties - and in its second century remains at the cutting edge of photography and design. Decade by decade, Vogue 100 : A Century of St yle celebrates the greatest moments in fashion, beauty and portrait photography. Illustrated throughout with well - known images, as well as th e less familiar and recently rediscovered, the book focuses on the faces that shaped the cultural landscape: from Matisse to Bacon, Freud and Hirst, from Dietrich to Paltrow, from Fred Astaire to David Beckham, from Lady Diana Cooper to Lady Diana Spencer. It features the fashion designers who defined the century - Dior , Galliano , Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, McQueen - and explores more broadly the changing form of the twentieth - century woman.
Cecil Beaton’s Bright Young Things

Cecil Beaton’s Bright Young Things

Robin Muir

National Portrait Gallery Publications
2020
sidottu
Cecil Beaton (1904–1980) is one of the most celebrated British Portrait photographers of the twentieth century and is renowned for his images of elegance, glamour and style. His influence on portrait photography was profound and lives on today in the work of many contemporary photographers.Beaton used his camera, his ambition and his larger-than-life personality to mingle with a flamboyant and rebellious group of artists, writers, socialites and partygoers. These ‘Bright Young Things’ captured the spirit of the roaring twenties and thirties as they cut a dramatic swathe through the epoch. Beaton quickly developed a reputation for his beautiful, often striking and fantastic photographs, which culminated in his portraits of Queen Elizabeth in 1939. More than a photographer, Beaton became a society fixture in his own right. In a series of themed chapters, covering Beaton’s first self-portraits and earliest sitters to his time at Cambridge and as principle society photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair, over 60 leading figures who sat for him are profiled and the dazzling parties, pageants and balls of the period are brought to life. Among this glittering cast are Beaton’s socialite sisters Baba and Nancy Beaton, Stephen Tennant, the Mitfords, Siegfried Sassoon, Evelyn Waugh and Daphne Du Maurier. Beaton’s photographs are complemented by a wide range of letters, drawings and ephemera and contextualised by artworks created by those in his circle, including Christopher Wood, Rex Whistler and Henry Lamb.
Under the Influence

Under the Influence

Robin Muir

Art / Books
2014
sidottu
John Deakin was one of the great postwar photographers, renowned for his penetrating portraits, haunting street scenes and inventive fashion work. Though he flourished briefly at Vogue, it was the lure of nearby Soho with its pubs, clubs and subterranean watering holes that led him away from regular employment. Loved and loathed in equal measure by friends and drinking companions, Deakin was a legendary member of the quarter’s maverick crowd of artists and misfits, enjoying a certain louche glamour as an ex-Vogue photographer. As its most famous chronicler with the camera, he is inextricably linked to Soho’s bohemian heyday in the two decades following the war. Accompanying an exhibition at The Photographers’ Gallery, Under the Influence: John Deakin, Photography and the Lure of Soho explores the hidden corners and colourful characters of this notorious part of London as seen through Deakin’s eyes. His circle included the painters Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud and Frank Auerbach, the writers Dylan Thomas, Daniel Farson and Jeffrey Bernard, and the socialites Henrietta Moraes and Muriel Belcher, proprietress of fabled drinking den The Colony Room. Deakin photographed these and other celebrated personalities alongside lesser-known Soho figures of the day. Artisans and tradesmen, from the ice-seller to the under-chef, newspaper vendor, street sweeper, vagrants and outsiders – all were captured by his democratic, equitable lens. With dozens of reproductions of Deakin’s most compelling images, letters, contact sheets and other ephemera, and a text by acclaimed photographic historian Robin Muir charting his troubled Soho existence, this book is an evocative record of life in and around the four parallels of Wardour, Dean, Frith and Greek streets in the 1950s and early 1960s.
Terence Donovan: 100 Fashion Photos

Terence Donovan: 100 Fashion Photos

Robin Muir

Welbeck Publishing Group
2021
sidottu
Terence Donovan (1936-1996) was one of the foremost photographers of his generation, with a career spanning almost 40 years. He came to prominence in London as part of a post-war renaissance in art, design and music, representing a new force in fashion and, later, advertising and portrait photography. He operated at the heart of London's Swinging Sixties, both as participant in, and observer of, the world he so brilliantly and incisively captured with his camera.Born into a working-class family in East London, Donovan was fascinated by photography and printmaking from an early age. He opened his own studio in 1959 at the age of twenty-two and was immediately sought after by a range of clients, including leading advertising agencies and fashion and lifestyle magazines of the time, including Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and Elle. Terence Donovan: 100 Fashion Photos brings together the very best of his fashion photography, from his ground-breaking work in the sixties to the superlative glamour of the supermodels of the nineties.Gifted with an unerring eye for the iconic as well as the transformative, Donovan was a master of his craft, a technical genius who pushed the limits of what was possible with a camera. This stylish book contains some of his most famous shots, as well as previously unseen images, and is a perfect gift for lovers of both fashion and photography.