Julia Moskin

The fascinating, mouthwatering story (with recipes ) of the immigrant family that created a New York gastronomic legend: "The most rambunctious and chaotic of all delicatessens, with one foot in the Old World and the other in the vanguard of every fast-breaking food move in the city." --Nora Ephron When Louis and Lilly Zabar rented a counter in a dairy store on 80th Street and Broadway in 1934 to sell smoked fish, they could not have imagined that five decades later their store would occupy half a city block and become a beloved, world-renowned mecca for quality food of all kinds. A passion for perfection, a keen business sense, cutthroat competitive instincts, and devotion to their customers led four generations of Zabars to create the Upper West Side shrine to the cheese, fish, meat, produce, baked goods, and prepared products that heralded the 20th-century revolution in food production andconsumption. Lori Zabar--Louis's granddaughter--begins with her grandfather's escape from Ukraine in 1921, following a pogrom in which his father, a sister, and an uncle were killed, and his (illegal ) entry into the United States from Canada. She describes Zabar's gradual expansion, Louis's untimely death in 1950, and the passing of the torch to Saul, Stanley, and partner Murray Klein, who raised competitive pricing to an art form and added top-tier houseware and appliances to Zabar's shelves. She paints a delectable portrait of Zabar's as it is today--the intoxicating aromas, the crowds, the devoted staff--and shares behind-the-scenes anecdotes of the long-time employees, family members, eccentric customers, and celebrity fans who have created a uniquely American institution that honors its immigrant roots, revels in its New York history, and is relentless in its devotion to the art and science of selling gourmet food.

In 2009, Julia Moskin and Kim Severson, who were both staff reporters for the "New York Times" Dining section, faced off in a dinner duel mediated by Frank Bruni, the paper's legendary restaurant critic. Armed with only $50.00, they each prepared a meal for six, a culinary battle non pareil that was prominently featured in the paper and quickly became one of that month's most emailed stories. Building on that success, Moskin and Severson extended their duel into a year-long kitchen war. "Cookfight" captures the delicious results of that brinksmanship as each chapter chronicles Moskin and Severson confronting a new challenge, from the budget challenge reported in the Times to a Farmers Market Challenge challenge to a Dinner Party challenge. In each chapter, the authors offer funny, side-by-side narratives and tantalizing, inventive recipes such as Julia's Mozzarella, Red Grape, and Black Olive Salad and Kim's Ginger and Cereal Milk Panna Cotta. "CookFight" features an engaging dual design and full-color photos that capture the energy and joie de vivre of Moskin's and Severson's home kitchens. Working mothers with spouses, children, and aging parents to worry about, Moskin and Severson cook for the real world - and "Cookfight" is a celebration of fun and friendship in the kitchen, even on the hardest days. With color photography throughout, useful sidebars and cooking tips, and Kim and Julia's sense of humor as they battle it out, "Cookfight" will entertain the seasoned cook, inspire the kitchen novice, and delight all who appreciate good cooking and great eating.